Welcome to the home of Sebastian Copeland’s adventures, advocacy and artistic endeavors.
For Sebastian Copeland's Fine Art photography site please click HERE

Visit The Last Great March - Fire + Ice Site

Day 9–Stormed in…still!

May 21, 2010 1:44 pm

The tent shook violently all night. Outside the storm rages on for the second consecutive day, flying wet snow drift and piling it on the side walls of the tent. Twice this morning, we felt that the storm would let out enough to enable us to get on our way. But the prevailing white out delayed our departure. And twice the wind quickly strengthened again to full out blizzard with gusts reaching seventy miles per hour!
Not surprisingly, we are pinned down again in the tent for what now amounts to 48 hours. And what feels like a week since our first and last kiting day.
Upon stepping out of the tent, the forces of nature really makes one feel small. Frost builds out sideways on the lines of the tent, and the drift sticks to the outerwear, caking up in a layer of white. Goggles are also rapidly made obsolete from the wet snow obstructing most visibility. The mean temperature wouldn’t be so bad if it weren’t for the nasty wind-chill. In all, being outside quickly loses its charm but for a short lived experiment (very short) or clearing the snow drift trapping the sledges before the snow turns to ice…
It is difficult not to admire the design ingenuity of the sum of nylon cloth, four poles and a few lines to anchor them, which together amount to an oasis of relative tranquility amidst such external chaos. With nothing but wind and ice surrounding us in all direction, inside that little red dot which is our Hilldeberg tent, you can still find a mean cup of tea! It does say a lot about Man ability to survive in the most hostile environments.
The southern Greenland storms can be unrelenting and last for days. Let’s pray this isn’t one of them…
Our position is therefore still at N62°20.392′ W46°48.596′ and 7030 feet in elevation.

More

Day 8–Pinned Down

May 20, 2010 8:58 pm

We have been pinned down in the tent all day, as a nasty storm is raging outside. We woke up to the tent flapping pretty severely but thought little of it, other than the prospect of putting miles behind us on the smaller kites. Erring on the side of caution, we decided to wait and see how the system would develop. Within an hour, the winds had intensified gusting to sixty plus miles per hour. The spin drift would soon cover the sledges and the side of the tent, giving a whole new dimension to bathroom duties! Upon stepping out, the force of the gusts makes walking on the hardened ice precariously slippery. Besides, the drifting wet snow will quickly make a walking snowman out of you. That and the hazardous wind-chill makes for a better choice inside! Here however, the tent walls are flapping with such force that air displacement inside generates its own internal wind system! If this were a movie set, I would imagine technicians hitting the walls of the tent all full force with tennis rackets, while blowing ritter fans from all directions! Eric and I play chess, read and rest. This hasn’t let up all day. As the light drops and the temperatures with it, this should make for a rock’n’roll night! These southern Greenland storm can pack a punch and last a few days. My concern is that once the system blows over, it could well be followed by dead calm–and thus no wind. Then we’d back to the baker oven… Wait: whose idea was this?

More

Day 7–Flying

May 19, 2010 9:05 pm
109 kilometers on our first day
N62:20’236″ W46:48’358″
There a feeling you get when the lines tighten, the nylon sail fills with air and lifts off. The tug on the harness propels you forward and you’re off using nothing but the power of the wind. It’s the same feeling that has captured the imagination through the ages since Icarus. It is called flying! And flying has always had a close relationship with crashing…
We had spent the day resting from that last nightly sojourn. We were reluctantly preparing for another cold night of headwinds and uphill pulling when the winds timidly shifted more to the east. It didn’t take much discussion to agree that a better plan would be to sit and let them build. And take off in the night.
In the end, we dosed in and out of sleep until morning. Nothing. But by mid-morning the tent begun to flutter enough to get us motivated, and soon we were packing camp. With the tent packed, the sled bags zipped up, and their straps tying them side by side; with the kite lines layed out, and the click of the boots in the binding, we hooked the sledges line into the harness’ carabiner, picked up the kites handles, gave it a tug…and nothing! Another gentle tug, followed by a few less diplomatic. Nothing doing. I could not lift off! Eric had more luck–and skill–with his Ozone 12 meter Yakuza handle kite with extend lines than I did with my 14 meter. The kite would fly, but the sledges load would stall it. After a few frustrated attempts, we switched and I managed to get moving. The extra line length, especially in light winds make for a very slow response time, but the feeling of gliding over the ice, even at slow speeds is exhilarating compared to walking. Every foot of ground covered feels like a victory, and as the uphill miles glide under our skis, the last of the mountains behind us slowly disappear behind the curve of the ice sheet. In one hours, we have covered more ground than we did an entire night on foot! Soon, the wind strengthened, and our speed picked up. The ice is like a frozen ocean and we are gliding over it at speeds reaching 30 kilometers an hour. The ice is racing below us, and the sun is out. We took off around 1 PM and while a system of clouds forms to the south, the weather is remarkably pleasant: just below freezing to keep the ice nice and hard, and very little sastrugi which makes it easier on the knees. The open space stretches unlimited in all directions, just like in the open sea. The wind has turned more to the south east, as the sun is beginning to drop. I am obsessed with capturing as much on film as I can, capitalizing on the slightest change in the monotony. With our increasing speed, and Eric slightly downwind from me, I decide to turn on the helmet cam and commit more on film. I remove my mitten, and feel my way on top of the helmet, looking for the “on” switch; distracted, I inadvertently dive the kite just as my skis hit a sastrugi, one going in one direction, the other God only knows and WHACK! I face plant into the ice at 35 kilometers an hour! Now, the thing about most crashes is that they generally stop at impact. Not with kites! It will take another two hundred feet, and a couple of lofts bouncing me about the hard ice before I can grab a hold of the brake line, as the kite is still gingerly powering downwind and dragging me like a ragdoll along with! Luckily, the helmet took the impact, and aside from slight bruising–mainly of the ego variety–I dust off and attempt to regain composure. We agree to downsize on the kites, however, and switch to 10 an 12 meter Mantas. By now the sun has set on the horizon, and the moon’s crescent is slowly ascending in the twighlight. The temperature has dropped considerably, but is mostly noticeable on the brief stops. The Napapijri gear the team made for us turn out perfect for these conditions, with plenty of areas to vent. It is 1 AM. We decide to pack it in for the night, especially as the winds have pulled back slightly. In all we traveled 109 kilometers over 11 hours excluding stops, and we are now at an elevation of 2141 meters!
All in a good day’s work. My legs are slightly wobbly and my body sore. Time for a hearty warm meal to counter the cold of the tent. And then lights out! Perfect.
More