Yesterday I said that the ice on a lead generally doesn’t break at once. Well sometimes it does. Today it did.
We
were out for 13 hours today, but only managed 10 nautical miles. There
were three reasons for this: 1) I fell in the drink; 2) we had our one
re-supply today 3) we hit a lot of deep powder with the new heavy
loads on the sledges.
First, the bath. We were trying to make time
and had a good start until a small east/west lead blocked our way. A
narrow section looked questionable but doable as it was only about 10
feet wide. I volunteered figuring that we could rush across the lead
and roll the dice. I unhooked from my sledge, stepped carefully on the
flexing ice, took a large step forward, and all at once–the
dreaded–the ice gave from under me and I slowly but inescapably sunk
to my neck in Arctic water. Keith quickly threw me a line and pulled me
out which left me dripping in minus 25F. I quickly rolled in the ice to
let it absorb the excess water before it froze, and stripped to put new
clothes on. It goes without saying that getting down to your skivvies
under these conditions isn’t anyone’s idea of fun–it was most
unpleasant. One of the great lessons of this environment is that there
are no time outs; no quitting and no savior. The mess you’re in is
yours to clean, and this responsibility works anywhere. Once changed we
proceeded to look for another crossing which didn’t, in the end, took
that long. But soon thereafter, we heard the powerful rotors of a
Russian MI8 helicopter, which was our scheduled re-supply drop. There
was much excitement off the chopper with a video camera and a
photographer, big hugs etc. Rick, the head of our logistics team at
Polar Explorers was there to greet us and give us our bags of food and
fuel. Victor who runs Barneo ice station, the floating base which will facilitate
our exit from the pole, gave us big, bear-like Russian hugs. Much as
the direct contact with the outside was warm and comforting, for us the
contrast was almost disconcerting: the temptation to sit longer inside
the warm chopper, to take in the comfort and conversation was a large
window outside of the harsh world we have been laboriously adapting to.
Exposed too long to this other reality, and our morale would suffer.
Besides, we were losing more time. So we rushed our supplies into the
sledges, and set off. Only now, the sledges’ weight of our first days
was there again! That miserable sensation of pulling way more than
seems reasonable, and this for another 170 nautical miles… What’s more the
terrain proved challenging and uneven, with many patches of deep
powder. Everything to make the new weight even more unbearable! The
morale was low, as another reality sunk in: at the rate we have been
going, we will not make the pole in time to exit through Barneo. If
that were the case, I would be looking at enormous costs to evacuate
through Resolute and Canada, funds which are not there…
So the
additional challenge is set; the race against the clock is on. We have
14 days to reach our goal. We need to average 12 nautical miles a day, which
we have not done so far, and not from lack of trying… Besides we are
drifting south–we lost half a mile last night and by the time we wake
up, we will have lost another mile–the drift is taking us backwards,
which is not unusual. We will restrategize. But for now we are dead
tired and will seek sleep for counsel… Temperature today was around
minus 25°F with a razor sharp chilly breeze into our faces from the
north west. Our current position is N87°20.021 and W76°49.910. The
adventure continues–but the pressure is on.
Good night!

87.1947N, 076.7111W
When a lead collapses from under your feet, it rarely happens instantly. It
could, of course, if it were thin enough; but you would likely not be
attempting to cross it there. Rather, when a lead cracks below your
weight it happens in slow motion, but the area breaking is typically as
long and as wide as your skis are, leaving very little leverage to
escape from the sink. That is what happened to me today. Keith had just
crossed a sketchy section but the narrowest of an open lead, which was
our best option. His combined weight with his sledge fractured that
passage after he crossed it leaving me to find a less desirable
section. I treaded carefully and found myself in the middle of this
narrow lead when Keith got agitated warning that my sledge was sinking
behind me! I reacted as fast as one does when facing the wrong
direction with skis on, and tethered to a heavy sledge! As I attempted
to back up, the ice below me gave in as well and soon, I was sinking
too. I thankfully managed to jump and throw myself to the side, thereby
avoiding buying the drink! I got away with one wet boot and a good shot
of adrenaline. (It should be said that if all else fails, the sledges
float). I then managed through another section and made a safe crossing.
But
today was a tough day. The first half of the day was riddle with
complex sections of large rubble and pressure ridges.There was no end
to it! The field was broken up like the Irish countryside, fragmented
in small plots seperated by walls of ice.This was the first six hours
of our day: taking the skis off; pulling the sledge up and down these
walls, or some ice junk yards; putting the skis on and repeating this
over again. Additionally, gastro intestinal discomfort isn’t fun
anywhere. But out here? Both Keith’s and my stomach felt lousy today.
Probably the dry freeze eggs rancheros from breakfast. Pulling was a
grind, and it was physically taxing. Keith was a star and led for the
afternoon as my stomach was just not there. By the end of our day, we
finally hit a flat pan which allowed us to make up some slow mileage
for the last four hours. We ended up covering 10 nautical miles in 11.5
hours. Our current position is N87°12.018 and W76°43.160.The drift is
still pulling us East but we should be OK if we keep, as I have,
favoring west. We have not been using the GPS much, but for figuring
our position at the beginning and end of the day. Because we have had
sun everyday (yes, the polar cap should be on your list of sunny
destinations: not a cloud in the sky so far!), I find it easier to
navigate compensating for the sun’s rotation around us, or 15°
clockwise every hour. (The sun no longer sets here at this time of the
year.)
That’s it: after a great day yesterday, a grind today!
Hopefully tomorrow will get us back on track! We’re both pooped
tonight. Goodnight!

Great day of traveling today, as the climate lent leniency to our trip with
an average of minus 25F to 29F degrees. Peary said it one hundred years
ago, and it still holds today–perfect temperatures for trekking here.
Just cold enough to keep from sweating, but not so cold as to numb the
experience into a teeth clattering, white-knuckled ride through frosty
hell. Additionally, the terrain was friendly and relatively flat, and
the scenery epic. It felt very much like a sand desert, but white–each
boulder a block of ice; each sand drift an ice drift. We came upon two
open leads which we crossed without trouble (though there is always the
thrill of tension preceding the crossing as we never know if it will
hold or break beneath our skis!) We also came upon some bear tracks
again, though this time they were probably a few weeks old. A bear has
little business being up here, given the scarcity of food. Mind you,
were it to come upon our tracks, the bear would be well justify to say
the same of us! We took our time traveling and I made it a point to
film and photograph. It is tough. A decision to shoot is always
weighted against time lost, and a potential cold injury to the fingers.
Either way, the fingers always get it! On thee frostbite watch, we seem
to be managing our injuries. But you cannot let your guard down out
here. It is unforgiving. We have camped next to an old re-frozen lead,
in what is perhaps the most scenic of our campsites so far. I made it a
point to walk around, since we generally build our tent and rush in to
get away from exposure. A truly exotic walk into another world. It
does not get old! We covered 11 nautical miles in 11 hours. We have
crossed into the next degree and our position is now N87°02.345 and
W76°32.992.